Solo in Seoul: Itaewon
Another in my mini series, Solo in Seoul.
Alriiiight Itaewon probably needs no introduction. Yes, the Itaewon from Itaewon Class. It’s the infamous foreigner district in Seoul. Historically, this is where foreigners (and I don’t just mean Westerners!) have gathered and lived for literal centuries.
Decades ago it was considered the “bad side” of town, gritty and dirty and run-down. Now, it’s slowly being gentrified (what does gentrification mean in a Korean context? Is that the best word we have? Idk either) and Itaewon has become the go-to area of Seoul for vegan brunch cafes, Turkish dessert shops and, well, before COVID, hot-place clubs and bars. Right next door is HBC, its queerer, slightly cooler cousin.
So, what’s good in Itaewon? There is a loooot, but I’m gonna stick with my faves.
Ranked in no particular order.
1. Dayrow Cafe 데이로우
My literal favorite cafe in Korea. Why? It’s not the cheapest, or the flashiest, or even the most aesthetic. But I just really dig this place. It’s got great coffee, even better desserts, and a great soundtrack. The interior is mid-century-styled, with dark wood interiors and a half-underground level.
(You can read more here about how half underground places have a very interesting significance in Korea, and it’s something that is changing as these places, especially in Itaewon, get renovated into bougie cafes. What does this say about the future of society? How do places like this fit into Bong Joon Ho’s vision of the literal and figurative stratification of Korean society? Idk, this is supposed to be a light-hearted listicle.))
2. Charm Studio 참스튜디오
Charm Studio is a well-known piercing shop that’s been around for 20 years. They do tattoos too, usually just thick black inkwork, but they’re most known for piercings. I got both my septum and daith pierced here; they’re super professional and sanitary. They also have a lot of piercing jewelry you can choose from. Usually stainless steel or sterling silver but you can ask for titanium.
3. Summer Lane
This is an Australian vegan brunch place. Super popular, so watch out for lines. In addition to vegemite and meat pies, you can get yummy breakfast platters, coffee and fizzy drinks. I loved their truffle mushroom tartine!
4. Champ Coffee 챔프커피 제2작업실
Champ Coffee is a tiny roastery. There are two locations—the first is a bigger place, but the second is more in Itaewon proper. The seating area is small, the drinker are even smaller—the prices are not. BUT the coffee is real good, some of the best I’ve had in Seoul.
5. PLANT 플랜트
PLANT is the go-to vegan spot in Seoul for foreigners. Expect salads, sandwiches, burgers, rice bowls and craft beer. Their dessert cakes, especially the strawberry, are also super good. This place impressed even my most meat-eating-adamant friends.
6. Johnny Dumpling 쟈니덤플링 본관
Late night dumplings? Oh hell yeah. Johnny’s a Chinese style dumpling place. Boiled or pan-fried, shrimp or pork or vegetarian—your choice!
7. Little India Seoul 리틀인디아서울
There’s quite a few Indian/Nepali/Uzbek places in Seoul. For Itaewon, I dig Little India Soul. The curries aren’t shockingly sweet like some Indian places in Korea might serve you. They were also really nice to me and gave me extra lassi :’)
8. Taco Amigo
In your quest for the best Mexican food in Seoul, I would recommend Taco Amigo for tacos. No, they’re not food truck level good, but they are pretty damn good for Korea. I also recommend their chili mango margarita, but it gets pricy. Haven’t tried their enchiladas or other platters; I’d go to El Pino for that.
9. Vinyl and plastic 바이닐앤플라스틱
I stumbled on this record store one day. This is an audiophile’s dream. Inside you can sample record players and browse albums of the latest hits and greatest classics. Upstairs is also a cafe.
10. Brewdog
As far as breweries go, I think Brewdog is the best in Itaewon. Always gotta get a dark ale! They also serve pub fare.
That’s it for Itaewon—check out its sister article, HBC. Hope you can go and enjoy these places :’)