MFC: Miyajima, Japan
my guesthouse, Miyajima Guesthouse <3
Back on my ‘19 Japan trip, I made careful, measured plans to ensure I got the best trip. Nara? Temple stay in Koyasan? I only had 12 days—which is hardly enough time for Tokyo, let alone the entire country.
Still, I was determined to make it to Hiroshima—and its neighbor, the island, Itsukushima, better known as Miyajima or “Shrine Island.” I’m choosing it for MFC but here it’s a misnomer: the island doesn’t have a city. Really, it’s more of a hamlet tucked away under its mountain. It’s a huge tourist spot though—and you’ll see why.
After a long, exhausting afternoon at the Hiroshima War Memorial, I took a ferry to Miyajima in the afternoon. Only ten minutes later, I was on the island, surrounded by overly-friendly deer, tourists and confection shops.
I walked to my hotel, Miyajima Guesthouse. I loved this place so much that we still follow each other on instagram—and they even still watch my stories lol. They have Japanese-style rooms (aka, floor pads) and Western-style bunk rooms. There’s also an onsen, courtyard, and living space full of origami and calligraphy tools. At the time, I described it as a “picture book come to life.”
As I settled in, my very kind host explain all the rules. She was a college student about my age, and we quickly became friends. She showed me how to make the frozen okonomiyaki—the famous “Japanese pizza” style egg-noodle dish. I asked if she’d teach me Japanese calligraphy, and she promised she would the next day!
So, after settling in, I retraced my steps to the famous Itsukushima Shrine and torii. It was sunset by this time, the sky was purples and blues, and there were few tourists left, as everything on Miyajima closes at 5pm.
While taking photos I met a lady from New Jersey. I expressed my disappointment that the torii was under construction and she said, “Well, you’ll never see it like this again! You can’t get this in magazines!”
I thought it was a very positive take and it’s kinda stuck with me ever since.
At low tide, I walked around, looking cor crabs and snails rolling around in the sand, gazed out at the sea…and also watched a woman literally wrestle a deer that was trying to get her food.
Japan was my first real solo trip, and I’ll be forever grateful for it. I was still reeling from thrill of just being alone. I could do whatever I want, go wherever. My whims were my guide.
In a place as safe and solo-friendly as Japan, in a town as breathtaking as Miyajima, it was an unlimited joy. I remember feeling so peaceful here. It was so calm and serene.
I learned this as I was sitting in a cafe, reading a travel guide: Miyajima is very sacred. Trees are not allowed to be cut for lumber here, and in the Shinto religion, deer are said to be messengers of the gods so they are left alone. Which explains why the Miyajima deer are so fearless. Mount Misen, the island’s highest peak, is said to be very spiritually powerful, especially for some women.
The next morning, I hiked this very mountain, curious to see if I’d sense the wary feeling some women described when approaching.
Well, when I say “hiked” I mean, I followed the trail up behind my hostel and gladly took the cable car, then hiked the rest of the way to the peak.
Even with the help of the cable car, it was a hard hike. I’m not a marathon runner or anything but this one had me gasping for air. Lots of stairs.
At last I got to the peak. I found the observatory and…the view was…well.
sigh…zero visibility
Still totally worth it. On the way down I met some women from Hong Kong. We began chatting about Texas and HK, since I was going there soon to visit.
Once I got back down, I had some oyster okonomiyaki (good, but this one in Hiroshima was better), grabbed a pick-me-up coffee and tried some momiji manjū cakes—a little maple-leaf shaped red bean or custard pastry. The island is known for its maple-leaves in Autumn, so these are another staple.
I also stopped by Daishoin Temple and spotted these little guys wearing more knitted hats. I also got my fortune (again).
It was afternoon, so time to plod back to my guesthouse for my calligraphy lesson. My host was the kindest ever, very patient with my clumsy ass, and she taught me how to spell my name in Kanji. I was really proud. :’)
I promised her I’d come back. Unfortunately with COVID, that never happened…but one day!
After less than 24 hours, it was time to return to the mainland since I had a long evening trip to Osaka.
It’s hard to explain how much I cherished Miyajima. I adore any destination that gives me a little peace, I think—maybe that’s why all my MFC are the smaller, sleepier stops in between the big cities. I think it’s the perfect little weekend trip combined with Hiroshima.
Between the best little guesthouse ever, cute and kind of intimidating deer, and some breathtaking sunset temple views, it’s hard to put into words just how special this island became to me.