Jiufen: Worth it?
Part of my Taiwan series.
If you’ve ever even briefly thought about going to Taiwan, you’ve probably seen countless recommendations, itinerary guides, and tour offers for Jiufen, the old mining city near Taipei.
Alternatively, if you’re a fan of Spirited Away or indeed any Studio Ghibli movie, you’ve probably heard about the famous A-Mei teahouse, which inspired the teahouse in the movie.
Pretty, but is it worth it the crowds? “What crowds?” you ask. “There’s none in this picture.” EXACTLY. Let me tell you how I got that
Frankly, Jiufen is one of the most famous spots in all of Taiwan, and for good reason. The lanterns at night are worthy of songs and poems and magical realist children’s animations movies. The views of the coast are stunning, and the street food is second-to-only-maybe-Tainan.
But I met travelers who were entirely skipping over Jiufen. Why? Because many know just how touristy it can get. And they are right. Jiufen is FILLED with tourists. By around 5pm, the massive tour groups will be herding into the small streets to get glimpses of the lanterns at dusk.
So, we’re left with the question: is it worth all that?
I won’t leave you in suspense. Yeah. Lol. Go to Jiufen if you can. However, there’s ways to make your experience a little bit less cookie-cutter and to realize your appreciation for a town that’s got more to offer than just one teahouse.
Here’s what I did in Jiufen, including both the tourist staples and the little things the tour groups won’t show you.
How to make the most of Jiufen
Let me break down my own experience.
I left for Jiufen early, at around 8am from Taipei Main Station. The journey isn’t hard, but requires two modes of transport; I took a TRA train to Ruifang train station, then took a bus to Jiufen’s Old Street. From there, I plodded down to my hostel. I planned to stay the night in Jiufen because I knew I’d have the best chance to actually enjoy the village without the evening crowds. I dropped off my stuff and headed out for tea.
Jiufen is known for its teahouses. The most famous being A-Mei, which runs about 300 TWD for tea. I got lost and ended up at Jiufen Teahouse, the oldest one in the whole town. Now….that one was roughly 600 TWD for tea, I think. My total bill was around $26 for tea and pineapple cakes. Reallllyyy pricey (for me, a budget traveler), but…
While it’s really great to see A-Mei from the inside, the inside of Jiufen Teahouse was unexpectedly gorgeous, with an entire courtyard devoted to plants and koi fish. None of my pictures do it justice. I recommend trying Jiufen Teahouse or any other that appeals to your fancy. Or go to them all! Be like me! Spend all your money on tea!
After spending my entire daily food budget on tea, I returned to check into my hostel, My Story Jiufen, which was a giant room with wall-to-wall windows facing the balcony with the BEST view. I was one of only three guests at the time, so noise wasn’t an issue at all.
My host, Jenny, was the friendliest hostel host I’ve ever met. She explained, using a little toothpick construction, how the streets of the Jiufen connected.
She had tons of suggestions, many of which I wouldn’t be able to do due to time. The mountain Jiufen is situated near offers a one-hour hiking trail. There are day trips all in the area—down in the valley to Houtong, the cat village, or Ruifang, famous for its lanterns and train track.
As for Jiufen itself, one of her recommendations was a temple called 九份青云殿 about 15 minutes away from the main road. She told me that if you go up to the 6th floor, you can get a gorgeous view of the sunset. After, she told me, you can go to the old street and try lots of food. Most close at around 6 or 7pm, and the lanterns shut off shortly after.
So, I followed her advice. Immediately, you could tell how peaceful Jiufen can be when you step off the main paths. The little alleys are a blissful, little break from the chaos of the old street, and with just a five minute’s walk, you’re out of town. The road to the temple was lined with old homes, shockingly quiet without any motorbikes. Only one or two drivers passed by, giving me curious looks like where is this white girl going? Is she lost?
After about fifteen minutes, I came upon the temple my host recommended, expecting to find a normal temple like Longshan, only to find this one was huge. The biggest and most breathtaking temple I saw in Taiwan.
No one was there except for a temple worker and one local family. I entered through the right side (as my host told me to do) and walked to the elevator in the back, pressing the button for the sixth floor. At the top was a balcony overlooking the valley. The sunset made for a beautiful sight.
I kind of just watched it for a while, snapping shots and enjoying the quiet.
Alright, food time
So after my time at the temple, I walked back to the old street in Jiufen, starting at the beginning. I walked up and down, trying different foods, taking photos of stands, and people watching. I listed out all the food I tried here, but I’ll repeat my favorite now: the peanut ice cream sandwich from Ah-Zhu Peanut Ice Cream Roll (阿珠雪在燒花生捲冰淇淋).
This one is no secret, but Jiufen is worth going for the street food alone. There are so many options, from sweet coffee cookies to fish balls.
Jiufen, ~at night~
By around 6pm, the huge stream of tourists dwindled. Tour groups start to leave around this time. Most of the restaurants start to shutter around this time, with most closing by 7-7:30pm.
I recommend staying past this, especially if you’re staying the night in Jiufen. You can maaaybe get shots of A-Mei without anyone in it.
But even if you don’t care about getting a perfect #gram post, it’s worth staying past dark to walk around the village and enjoy it with fewer people. Jiufen is a contradiction: both super touristy and also remarkably peaceful.
Morning calm
Jiufen doesn’t wake up until at least 10am. Most places won’t open until 11am or noon, given how late most tourists arrive.
But while you might have to walk a while to find a cup of coffee, my morning in Jiufen was my favorite part. The day was warm, and I walked around with my little film camera, enjoying the sun and the breeze.
Maybe I’m biased. This morning was when I found out I was accepted to teach in Spain this upcoming fall, and I remember feeling so elated. But I think being in a place like Jiufen didn’t hurt my spirits either.
Wrap Up
So, is Jiufen worth it? Yeah. Even with all the tourists and pricey cafes, the place is too memorable to skip over. The lanterns are worth all that hype, and the views were some of the best I saw in Taiwan.
Here are my tips, distilled:
Get there early (noonish)
Check out more than just the Old Street
Try other teahouses than just A-Mei
Eat lots of street food
Stay late (8pmish)
Stay the night (if you can) to experience Jiufen in the quiet morning
I’m so glad I didn’t take a tour, and I suggest going on your own if you can. My main recommendation is to remember that it’s an actual town with real residents. Remember to respect that. Explore, chat with locals, and go check out temples and hiking trails nearby!
Thanks for reading!